I've seen threads posted repeatedly asking how to build one, so I snapped a few images during the process. And will post detailed instructions on how to build your own.
I must emphasize this is not a full scale, large capacity, 3 walled tank. It is however able to be assembled or dis-assembled relatively quickly, and the parts are unlikely to arouse suspicion. So it's perfect for anyone sharing with housemates or nosy parents.
I'll start by listing the parts, all should be available in most hardware stores. Some basic tools are required too.
1: Boltless shelving unit. 810-W x 310-D x 1570-H ( millimeters ) $40. Tank location will dictate the size of the frame, this size fits snugly in my shower cubicle.
2: Storage container 18 liter. $13. This is the tank, match the dimensions with the span of the storage unit frame so it will fit between the horizontal supports. Capacity can be larger if desired, but do not exceed the weight limit of the shelving unit.
3: Threaded PVC valve socket 20/25mm. $1.75. This is the valve, the upper section is 25mm wide, the lower section is 20mm and threaded - see images for the component.
4: Basin plug 25mm. $3.
5: Nylon builders line - 100M. $5 Any rope, cable, string or line will do, but ideally aim for something synthetic that can rinse out easily and will stay clean.
You will also need a 25mm flat spade drill bit, a cordless or mains drill, hacksaw and some waterproof glue / clear silicone.
Assemble the shelving unit following the instructions, attach the four shelf supports at the base and the top. But only three in the middle of the unit, this will allow space for the common plastic garden chair.
***!!! Check that your container fits tightly within the upper shelf supports and cannot slip through, buy a tapered container with rigid plastic. I cannot emphasize this enough! !!!***
Using your drill and 25mm flat spade bit, drill through the base of the container in the center. Go slowly and let the drill do the work, applying pressure can split the plastic and ruin the container.
You will need to cut about 15mm off the top of the PVC fitting with a hacksaw, cut the end with the larger diameter and no thread. Smooth any rough edges with a file or some sandpaper.
Once you have a nice clean hole in the container, apply some silicone sealant to the PVC valve at the base of the thread all around the valve. You won't need much, about the thickness of a match.
Screw the valve into position from the inside of the container, this is usually very easy once the thread bites into the plastic. Keep turning until the valve is tight and flush against the container, the sealant will bond and provide a liquid seal.
Tie your line to your 25mm plug, and if your container has a snap-lock lid you can drill a small hole into the center of it to thread the line through.
Put the tank in the frame and the plug in the valve and you're ready to go.
The tank will not drain completely due to the valve being slightly higher than the base of the container, so you'll be left with about 10-15mm of liquid in the tank.
AWESOME! Despite being done on a budget, actually looks like a quality job! I would never have thought to use shelving for a gunge tank... good old aussie enginuity! Well done and thanks for posting!
you know, myself and a couple of other friends independently declared that if we were going to build a new house, or remodel existing ones, that a splosh room would be planned.. Washable (tiled) walls, heated floor, and a central drain to hose everything down.. but something that would seem not too unusual if showing houseguests around..
This is the most thorough and most useful build-your-own-gunge-tank post I've seen here since...possibly ever. Thank you so much for sharing your build with us.
I was looking into the problem with the thread being much higher than the base of the container or gunge tank, resulting in a fairly decent amount of gunge remaining in the tank unused, and i think i may have found a solution.
using a basin waste plug & drain might almost solve it. its almost flush with the container floor, altbough a larger hole would be required (up to 40mm instead of 25mm), at least almost all the gunge would empty out of the container. despite being a fair bit more expensive its only one component and the victim would get a much wilder and faster gunging too... unless of course you use an adapter thread to reduce it down again. attached a pic so you can check it out.