I have been visiting this place for years, and I would like to share a recipe for a really sticky and stretchy slime that coats well and forms big sheets. There isn't a lot of videos that do the whole glue / stretchy slime motif, so this might spur some more innovation. The recipe calls for 3 cups of activated charcoal powder : 1 gallon of water : 1 gallon school glue : 2 cups of warm water mixed with 30ml borax. Sta Flo laundry starch is a better substitute since it has dimethicone in it, but it's only available in the States. This makes a black slime that's easy to clean up since iron oxide does like to stain things. If you don't want black slime, omit the activated charcoal and add powdered poster paint at step 1 instead instead. I went with activated charcoal since I'm sensitive to borax, and it's good to make a test batch and wrap it around your wrist for a few minutes to see if you are sensitive before committing to a large batch. Procedure is as follows:
Step 1: In a large bucket, mix 1 gallon water (preferably distilled or boiled if you want your slime to last long) with activated charcoal powder or poster paint powder
Step 2: Add in 1 gallon of white PVA glue (or clear glue if you want clear slime) into the bucket and mix together with the water.
Step 3: In a separate container, mix 30g of borax 2 cups of warm water (or measure out 2 cups Sta Flo)
Step 4: Get a large empty container to store your batches of finished slime
Step 5: Slowly add in half of your borax mixture or Sta Flo, and stir it into the bucket until a clump of slime starts to form. At this point, you can slowly press against the slime with your hands until it forms a large ball, which you pull out of the bucket. It's a bit drippy, but if you keep kneading it, it will absorb all the glue solution and become less sticky. From here, you can keep dunking the ball of slime into the solution, pick up some more glue solution, and knead it in until you have your desired stickiness of slime. Throw that into your large batch container, and keep adding borax solution and pulling out balls of slime until all the liquid in the bucket is soaked up into slime.
Do this enough times and you will end up with something like this:
The slime breaks apart and doesn't stick to fast moving surfaces, kind of like ooblek. However, the second it starts resting on something and sucks it under, anything attached becomes a second skin when it's pulled out. The slime also sticks to itself and forms sheets when slowly pulled apart.
Precautions and Cleanup
This slime is bad news when it comes into contact with long hairs, so be warned! The suction from the slime is significant in large volumes, so it's advised that you wear a bald cap held in place with spirit gum, ear plugs, and a wig on top that overlaps, also with spirit gum if you are having models do a shoot. Another option is to simply wear a latex hood, which keeps the slime out just fine and allows for some great submersions. It goes without saying, but don't eat the slime.
The best way to clean up the slime is to ball up a piece and then quickly stick it to another piece of slime and pick it up. In the event that glue gets stuck in problem areas, the slime can be dissolved with a sponge soaked in vinegar or lemon juice. It's probably best not to flush this stuff down the drain, but in the event stray pieces cause a clog, pouring in vinegar will dissolve the clog as well. If you add a bit of borax, you can firm up the slime to pick dirt off your keyboard too. It's also great for cleaning up around the litter box. Any tweaks to this formula and cleanup advice are welcome.
This is such an awesome slime! It's like tar - just without those pesky carcinogens! I had an amazing time playing with essentially this same kind of slime this past summer. We used primarily clear glue (Color Splash) and a combination of Sta-Flo and dissolved borax.